外送革命：消失的廚房
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文／DEAR 04月號/2020 第16期 封面故事
Dark kitchens: Where does your food delivery really come from? | CNBC Reports
去年夏天請了個長假，飛到英國拜訪好久不見的學姊。打聽好她打工的飲料店地址，本想來份越洋的溫暖驚喜，卻站在濕冷的倫敦街頭撲了個空。
「我今天在廚房值班，你去店裡找不到我啦！」
幽靈廚房（Dark Kitchen，又稱黑暗廚房）聽起來像某部恐怖電影的片名，或是黑暗料理界的殘酷考驗⋯⋯別誤會，這些廚房的功能有點像中央餐廚，不同的是，從幽靈廚房送出的餐點不會經過實體店面，而是直接透過外送服務送進消費者口中。
循著學姊傳來的地址走了半晌，找到一間看起來像食品工廠的水泥建築，站在半開的鐵門外正猶豫著該怎麼進去，幾台外送車從身旁呼嘯而過。
「這邊大部分是外送直接來取餐，租金比店面便宜很多。你想喝什麼嗎？會餓的話隔壁廚房是賣雞腿便當的。」 坐在忙碌的廚房一角，喝著免費烏龍奶蓋的我不禁開始思考，若這樣的商業模式在台灣興起，東門永康街、台南國華街，這些熱鬧的美食集中地，是否會成為下一個沒落的東區？甚至，有了幫消費者省時省力的幽靈廚房和外送服務，家中的廚房是否還有存在的必要？
Last summer, I took a long break and flew to the UK to visit a friend. Wanting to give her a surprise visit, I looked up the address of the bubble tea shop she worked in. But, when I showed up, she wasn’t there.
“You won’t find me at the shop, I’m working in the kitchen today!”
Dark Kitchen, sounds like the name of a horror film or a tough challenge for chefs, but actually, dark kitchens are not unlike central kitchens. The only difference is that the food they serve is delivered directly through the couriers to the customers instead of restaurants.
“The rent is cheaper this way. Would you like something to drink? If you’re hungry, the kitchen next door makes amazing lunch boxes.”
As I sat there and sipped on my free drink, I couldn’t help but wonder what would happen if the same business model were to come to Taiwan? Are restaurants going to close down? Do we still need our own kitchen at home?
※ 本文摘自《DEAR 04月號/2020 第16期》，立即前往試讀►►►